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Holiday Walks in the Loire Valley

Judy Smith

With 32 varied walks of different lengths and grades you are sure to find something to enjoy in the Loire region - the ‘Garden of France’. Marvel at the diverse scenery - from elegant fairy-tale châteaux to sloping vineyards and troglodyte dwellings in the cliffs. Whether you choose a ramble, a stroll, a wander or a more strenuous walk you are provided with route directions, maps, points of geographical and historical interest and more.

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Contents | Location | The Loire Valley | Sample Walk

Holiday Walks in the Loire Valley offers a selection of 32 routes - plus suggestions for over a hundred more - along which to explore the Loire and some of its tributaries. Whether seeking to escape the round of château-viewing for a day or considering a whole walking holiday in this beautiful region of France, there is something for everyone. This is the ‘Garden of France’ where spring comes early, summers are warm and the golden days of autumn bring a rich harvest. Midway between the Channel and the Mediterranean, the Loire Valley has the ideal climate for walking throughout the year. The range of walks is varied, from gentle rambles along the riverbank to more strenuous hikes in the hills and forests above. There are wanders in the wetlands of the Sologne and Brière, ambles through the vineyards of Anjou, climbs along cliffs with troglodyte dwellings and discoveries of history in the ancient villages of Touraine. Châteaux, both the famous and unknown, feature on almost every route. In addition, for those looking for an itinerant holiday, ‘From source to the Sea’ is a special selection of 12 easy walks following the progress of the river from its birth high in the Cévennes to its mouth on the Bay of Biscay. In addition to route directions and sketch maps, you will find local folklore, historical and geographical details, suggestions for refreshment and other nearby places of interest, tourist information centres and a glossary of French words useful to walkers. This book gives you an entirely new slant on a region that is already familiar to - and very popular with - thousands of British holidaymakers.

Contents | Location | The Loire Valley | Sample Walk

Contents

    The Upper Reaches
  1. *At the Source of the Loire: Distance: 3km (2 miles) or 12.7km (8 miles)
  2. *A Château on the rocks at Arlempdes: Distance: 9.5km (6 miles) or 6km (3¾ miles)
  3. In the Gorges de Peyredeyre: Distance: 10km (6¼ miles)
  4. *Views of the Lac de Grangent: Distance: 5km (3 miles)
  5. *The Gorges Roannaises: Distance: 10.5km (6½ miles) or 9km (5½ miles)
  6. *The Canals of Digoin: Distance: 8km (5 miles)
  7. *Walking with a legend at Nevers: Distance: 8km (5 miles) or 12km (7½ miles)
    The Orléanais and Blesois (The départements of Loiret and Loir-et-Cher)
  8. *The Story of the Site de Mantelot: Distance: 6km (3¾ miles)
  9. In the Forest of Orléans: Distance: 16km (10 miles), 13km (8 miles) or 8km (5 miles)
  10. Woods and Lakes of the Sologne: Distance: 12km (7½ miles)
  11. *Orchards by the Loire at Beaugency: Distance: 12km (7½ miles) or 6km (3¾ miles)
  12. Through the parkland of Chambord: Distance: 13km (8 miles)
  13. The Water-mills of Suèvres: Distance: 12km (7½ miles), 8km (5 miles), or 6km (3¾ miles)
  14. A train ride through the vineyards at Thoré-la-Rochette: Distance: 12km (7½ miles)
    Touraine (the département of Indre-et-Loire)
  15. Under the arches of Chenonceau: Distance: 8.5km (5¼ miles)
  16. Céré-la-Ronde - a landscape of Touraine: Distance: 13km (8 miles), 8km (5 miles) or 6km (3¾ miles)
  17. Azay-sur-Indre - a tale of two rivers: Distance: 12km (7½ miles)
  18. *The lantern of Rochecorbon: Distance: 12km (7½ miles) or 7km (4½ miles)
  19. A woodland of wild flowers at Sepmes: Distance: 7km (4½ miles)
  20. In the valley of the Manse at Avon-les-Roches: Distance: 10km (6¼ miles)
  21. The banks of the Cher at Villandry: Distance: 10km (6¼ miles)
  22. Giant strides around Seuilly: Distance: 17km (10½ miles)
  23. Lake and woods at Château-la-Vallière: Distance: 13km (8 miles) or 10km (6¼ miles) Sarthe
  24. Le Lude and the valley of the Loir: Distance: 16km (10 miles) or 8km (5 miles)
    Anjou (the département of Maine-et-Loire)
  25. Along the GR3 to Saumur: Distance: 17km (10½ miles), 25km (15½ miles) or 11km (7 miles)
  26. *Prehistory at le Thoureil: Distance: 8km (5 miles) or 9.5km (6 miles)
  27. A château in the valley of the Sarthe: Distance: 12.5km (7¾ miles)
  28. The Corniche Angevine: Distance: 15km (9½ miles)
  29. From the Evre to the Loire at St. Florent-le-Vieil: Distance: 15km (9½ miles)
  30. *The long history of Champtoceaux: Distance: 8km (5 miles), 5km (3 miles) or 4km (2½ miles)
    Loire-Atlantique
  31. 31Windmills and wine at Monnières: Distance: 10km (6¼ miles)
  32. 32*St. Brévin-les-Pins - estuary and ocean: Distance: 14km (8¾ miles) or 7.5km (4¾ miles)

* Walks nos. 1, 2 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 18, 26, 30 and 32 form the series 'From Source to the Sea'

Contents | Location | The Loire Valley | Sample Walk

The Loire Valley

The Loire rises in the Cévennes, on the northern slopes of the Massif Central, and flows a course of around 1020km to its mouth on the Bay of Biscay. Nevertheless, most guidebooks of 'The Loire Valley' confine themselves to the stretch of the river between Gien and Nantes, with the occasional one continuing the journey to the coast. Rarely, outlying areas such as Sarthe or Berry are included. In this way, at least, most of the châteaux are taken into account, and that is what the larger part of the visitors are here for. But this is a walking book, and the Loire Valley is taken literally, following the river all the way from its source on the Gerbier de Jonc to the sea. In that way, the book includes not only a little of the Loire-Atlantique, but also something of the remote mountains and spectacular gorges in which the river spends its early days.

Contents | Location | The Loire Valley | Sample Walk

Sample Walk

15 - Under the arches of Chenonceau

Everyone knows Chenonceau, the most romantic of Renaissance châteaux, its long gallery supported on arches spanning the tranquil River Cher. Crowds flock to visit it, but you can be almost alone on this walk along the opposite bank, with undoubtedly the best views of all.
Grade: Easy
Distance: 8.5 km. (5¼ miles)
Time: 2¼ hours
Map: IGN Série Bleue 1923 E and 2023 O
Start and finish: The main car park in Chenonceaux.
How to get there: Chenonceaux is about 30 km. east of Tours on the north bank of the Cher. Heading east you will first pass the château entrance on the right. The Office de Tourisme comes almost immediately afterwards, followed by a well-concealed but largish car park amid abundant vegetation. Should this be full (just possible in high season), there is another car park in the village of Chenonceaux - follow the signs.
Refreshment: Plenty in the village of Chenonceaux.
Notes: This easy walk is largely along riverside tracks, with a short section through the village of Chenonceaux. Trainers would be quite suitable in dry weather, although stouter footwear may be appreciated out of season or after heavy rain. There is no refreshment en route, so carry water. On a hot day, take the sun-cream - and whatever the weather, don't forget your camera.
Waymarking: About three-quarters of this walk is on Grande Randonnée with white on red waymarks. A short riverside section is not waymarked - but you can't get lost.


Introduction
Chenonceau has the epithet Château des Dames - its destiny over the years has been shaped by a succession of women. The first of these was Catherine Briçonnet, the wife of one Thomas Bohier, a Tax Collector under François I. He bought here a manor with a mill - and as he was abroad for long periods, it was his wife who was responsible for the design of the four turreted château they had built in its place. Chenonceau bankrupted Thomas Bohier, and after his death, the estate was seized by the crown. When in turn it was passed on to Henri II, he gave it to his mistress, the beautiful Diane de Poitiers. She added a formal garden and, most famously, a bridge over the Cher. Diane loved Chenonceau - so when Henri died tragically in an accident, his widow Catherine de Medici was at last able to take her revenge. Diane was expelled from the château and sent to Chaumont. Catherine herself lived in Chenonceau, added more parkland and garden, and topped the bridge with its two-storey gallery.

Châteaux Chenonceau

A further contributor to the history of Chenonceau is Madame Dupin whose popularity in the local community saved the château from destruction by the Republican revolutionaries - she is buried in the park. And finally there is Madame Pélouze who bought the château in 1864, and put all her life's energy into restoring it to its former glory. Chenonceau is stunningly beautiful, and naturally is one of the most popular of the Loire châteaux. The walk here starts from the village of Chenonceaux (unlike the château, spelt with an x). Passing the château gate you will no doubt see the throngs of tourists, but there is no view of the building itself. You have a little while to wait for that as the route first takes you away downriver - although at one point the path does just touch a corner of the moat and parkland. Walking through woods and fields, you arrive at the north bank of the Cher and then the lock at Civray where you cross the Cher. The path on the south side of the river is at first an open track with views. Farther on you reach the woods at the edge of the park and then, as you round a bend, there is suddenly this glorious vision of Chenonceau itself, its gallery and arches reflected in the calm waters of the Cher. The riverside path goes right under the arches and there are splendid views on each side. Unfortunately it is not possible to enter the château from this bank of the river - although visitors from the inside may get a pass to visit the parkland here and return. But your path continues under the trees by the river bank, and soon crosses the bridge to return to the village of Chenonceaux. If at the end of the walk you are keen to see the interior and gardens at closer quarters, it is easy to return to the main entrance.

The Walk

  • Leaving the car park, turn to the left. Continue alongside the road, passing the Office de Tourisme, the main entrance of the château and then the château vineyards. Continue along the road for a further 300m or so, and (coming up to the Civray de Touraine sign) turn left on a hard-surfaced track, waymarked with the white on red of a Grande Randonnée. This track crosses the railway and immediately turns left alongside the lines. Follow the track (there are no other options) as it turns right and heads downhill towards the poplars. Reaching the woods, you find you are beside the stagnant waters of Chenonceau's moat, with its wooded parkland on the far side - but you still can't see the château.
    		•  Map for walk will go here
  • After a couple of minutes beside the moat the main path swings to the right. This pleasant path follows the edge of the wood and eventually crosses open land to reach a broad gravelled track in front of more woodland. Turn left on this and continue to the river bank. Now turn right and keep to the riverside path, soon passing the lock with its classic lock-keeper's house (look for the surprising flood levels marked on its façade). Continue past the campsite to the bridge.
  • Pass under the bridge and immediately turn right and double back to cross it. Now turn left (leaving the GR, which turns right) and continue on the path along the south bank, enjoying views of the lock from the opposite side. The path becomes rougher for a while but improves as you approach the woodland of the château. Huge sign boards warn boats they are nearing Chenonceau - and asking them not to bump into its pillars! Farther along the Grande Randonnée joins from the right and you meet again the familiar white on red waymarks. The first sight of the château is stunning - and the view improves as you go on. The path runs right under the arches and it is possible to divert into the parkland on your right (follow signs for Madame Dupin's grave). Visitors to the château are allowed access to this but must show a card to re-enter - sadly, there is no way in for you here (but go up and ask - you at least get a glimpse of the long gallery). Your path continues under the trees beside the river as far as the next bridge.
  • Climb the steps and turn left to cross the bridge. On the far side, take a road on the left, immediately before the railway. Still following the waymarks, pass a picnic area, some tennis courts and the municipal campsite, before turning right to pass underneath the railway. This little road now climbs to join the main road. Turn left at the junction and continue through the village of Chenonceaux, with its tempting variety of cafés and restaurants. Your car park is on the left hand side, just after the bend.

    • More Walks in the Area The route of this walk was largely on the GR 41, the Grande Randonnée of the Cher valley - it takes a big loop to go under the arches of the château. Continuing east on the GR41, in just 19 km. from Chenonceaux (a day's walk) you will arrive at Montrichard with its château, boat trips and riverside beach - and there's a bus to return you at the end of the day (or take you out in the morning). Heading in the opposite direction, 24 km. will bring you to Veretz, similarly served by bus. Whereas the eastern route wanders through the countryside and villages, the western one mostly stays close to the riverside - and passes four châteaux en route. The route of the Grande Randonnée is marked on the appropriate IGN Série Bleue maps, but you would need more than one of them for each of these journeys. Better than these maps is an excellent booklet Guide des Randonneurs - Sentier Historique de Touraine. This describes a 170 km. circular route taking in the valleys of the Cher (GR41) and the Indre (GR46). The maps are excellent and if you have some knowledge of French you can get a lot of historical detail. You would be lucky to find the book in a local Office de Tourisme - write (or go) instead to the desk of the Comité de Touraine de la Randonnée Pedestre at the Office de Tourisme in Tours.
    To the north of Chenonceaux is the Forest of Amboise, an excellent choice for a walk, especially in hot weather. The Office de Tourisme in Amboise can offer you a map of the western part of the forest showing all the main tracks, and suggesting a waymarked circuit of 35 km. (it can be shortened!). A separate leaflet entitled Chemin de la Forêt describes an 18 km. circuit (again with short cut) farther to the east. Amboise also boasts a 9.5 km. waymarked circuit of the town (Sentier des Artistes), taking you from riverside to the Pagode de Chanteloup in the forest and visiting everywhere of note on the way.
    Places of interest nearby
    Heading north on the road to Amboise you will pas the fairly recently opened Parc Mini-Châteaux. Here you can see 'all the most beautiful châteaux of the Loire Valley at a glance' - at least 60 of them are beautifully and accurately laid out with miniature vegetation (bonsai trees) and tiny people in their courtyards and windows. Photographs taken here can be indistinguishable from the originals! Fountains play, hounds chase the deer, model trains trundle by (a TGV 'races' in and out of its station at Vendôme) and tiny boats ply the waterways. Parc Mini-Châteaux is open every day with illuminations on Saturday evenings in summer. Entry is not inexpensive, but strangely includes the nearby donkey park (where there are as many donkeys as châteaux.
    To the west of the Parc Mini-Châteaux, on the D31, you come across the curious Pagode de Chanteloup. The building is the only surviving part of an 18th century château belonging to the Duke of Choiseul. He fell foul of the hierarchy of the day in the form of the king's mistress and was exiled in his sumptuous château - the pagoda was built as a thank-you to those friends who did not desert him. The château is now demolished and the pagoda, set beside an ornamental lake, has something of the leaning tower of Pisa about it. But you can still climb the spiral staircase to the rather doubtful platform at the very top for a view of Amboise and the forest. In keeping with the gentile nature of the place, handsome lunch-baskets of local produce can be purchased to enjoy at the lakeside, and you can play traditional outdoor wooden games at tables under brollies in the garden.
    Arriving in Amboise, there is plenty to see, but the must-be-visiteds are the château, and the Clos-Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci. Housed in the basement, the models of his brilliant inventions (recreated from his drawings by IBM) must be worth an hour or two of anybody's time. The Clos-Lucé is open every day throughout the year with the exception of Christmas Day and New Year's Day.

    Contents | Location | The Loire Valley | Sample Walk

    Publication Date ISBN Pages Price
    July 2002 1 85058 772 8 160pp £9.95

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